AUSTRALIAN MODEL RAILWAY BUILDINGS, STRUCTURES and ACCESSORIES
SECTION 8
Identify the rod jig and the 3mm styrene rod. the rod sits in the rut on the jig and this determines the lengths of the rod. 6 lengths of rod are required. Identify the Bearers for the body. There are 4 in total. Two are smooth sided and two have ruts along its side. The two smooth bearers are the inner bearers and the ruts on the other two are positioned facing out. Position the bearers as described and place the rods through the bearers holes. Do not glue the smooth inner bearers. Set the frame square and flat. Use the cast bearer spacer blocks to fashion an even space between all bearers. Makes sure the rod is flush with the rutted side of the outer bearers. When satisfied glue the outer or rutted bearers. No gluing of the smooth bearers will be necessary. Identify the ABS trunion blocks. There are two. These are positioned each end in between the inner smooth bearers and flush with that will be the underside of the frame Leave approximately 1mm from the end of the bearer. See photograph above. When satisfied this the position glue. That forms the basis of the frame.
Identify the deck shaping jig parts. The rebate on the edge of the MDF accommodates the rod and helps position the deck into the bent bearers. When gluing the decks to the frame I prefer to use an epoxy glue such as araldite. Identify the upper deck and the under deck. The under has the centre locating sections shorter than the upper. This caters for the trunion support block. Place the upper deck into position and manouvre the smooth bearers so it all fits. Centre the length of the deck with the centre of the frame. There should be an even 2mm overhang along the sides. Glue only 40 or 50mm of the well section staying away from the bent sections of the bearers. Clamp into position using the jig plate and leave until the glue is set. Make sure no excess glue has emerged on the outer of the frame. Once the first section is sound the inside bend of the bearers can be glued. Test the positioning of the jig prior to gluing. The rod on the rut of the jig is pushed into the bend of the bearer until the deck is flush with the bearer. Remove the jig position the glue and repeat with the jig. Once satisfied clamp into place and leave. Repeat small sections along the deck. Put aside. Once the etched sides are glued into position repeat the same for the under deck. Its easier to glue to sides before attaching the under deck.
QW 2
Glue the etch side assembly onto the frame. Make sure its flat and square. Glue the end etch assembly and then glue the under deck. Put aside and let to set.
Once the model is set the upper and under deck are trimmed at the ends. The overhang should be approximately 1mm past the gussets. Position a steel ruler along the gusset, the thickness of the steel ruler should satisfy the overhand requirements. Carefully cut along the ruler edge top and bottom both ends.
Identify the trunion plate. The plate has one side flat and the other a circular disk and a 1mm hole. The flat side is positioned on the underside of the model flush with each end and centred. You will see the disk is not centred in the plate. One end is about 1mm from the edge and the other about 2mm. Position the trunion plate as described with the disk gap of 1mm closest to the end of the model. Carefully drill a 1mm hole into the model. Take care no to drill through the upper deck. A small length of 1mm rod can be fitted into the hole with 3mm exposed cartering for the connection to the span bolster.
Paint. Decal as per photographs available.
Parts
Brass Etch sides ends and gusset panel
Brass Etch gusset panel small.
Brass Etch lashing rings panel x 2
ABS Bearers x 4
ABS top and bottom deck
ABS 2 small blocks trunion support
Styrene 3mm rod 2 pieces
Cast bearer spacer blocks and Rod Jig
3D printed trunion plate x 2
MDF plate and styrene rod. (Deck shaping Jig)
Decals.
Assembly Instructions
Check all parts are present. Clean flashing etc from parts as you go. Dry fit prior to fixing parts together.
Study the attached PDF files. The first one identifies each group of gussets. The second show where they should be positioned. The angled gussets must taper away from the upper deck. Start with the No. 1 gussets. The No. 1 position is symmetrical at each end and both sides. the same is for No. 2 etc. Position the gusset flange through the rut on the side etch. Keep the gusset flush and square. Glue into position with superglue. Some modeller may prefer to solder. That is fine. My soldering skill is not sufficient for this project. Use the superglue sparingly. Repeat and repeat for both sides and all the gussets. The gussets for the well section of the side etch are on the small panel separated from the main etch panel. The end etch also has gussets that requires fixing. The 2nd photograph above show the end etches and the gussets. You will note some of the gussets have less of a tag to penetrate the rut. Use these gussets where the bearers meet the end etch and there is not enough room to accommodate the inside part of the gusset.
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