AUSTRALIAN MODEL RAILWAY BUILDINGS, STRUCTURES and ACCESSORIES

SECTION 8


Miner's Cottage


Check all parts are present. - You should have the following:-

1 x front wall (large door aperture)

1 x back wall (small door aperture)

1 x solid mid wall

2 x side walls

2 x lean-to side walls

1 x chimney

2 x roof braces

1 x lean-to roof 40 x 97

1 x verandah roof 30 x 97mm

1 x verandah roof support

plastic bag cont.  2 x roof sections

plastic bag cont.  adhesive paper

plastic bag cont.  1 x gutter, 2 x gable facias, 2 x lean-to facias (approx 4 x 40 x .5mm), 2 x verandah posts 32mm

plastic bag cont.  1 x large door, 1 x small door, 5 x windows, glazing, 4 x verandah posts.

plastic bag cont.   1mm brass rod



Instructions 

Remove excesses and file/sand where necessary.

Front and mid walls overlap side walls. Glue walls together allowing the front and rear walls a small overhang of .5 mm or less. Cut a scrap piece of styrene cardboard etc to fit firm inside the building DO NOT SECURE. Back wall overlaps lean-to wall and again allow .5 mm or less overhang. Glue these three walls, then glue lean-to to main body. Again cut a scrap to brace the inside of the lean- to. DO NOT GLUE. Paint.


Paint Chimney

Paint windows and doors.

Paint gutters and facias

Paint verandah posts

Paint verandah roof

Paint verandah roof support


Glue verandah roof to verandah roof support


To assemble roof - identify gable edge by locating beveled edge of both sections. Further filing may be required on these edges. Lay both sections iron facing up with bevel edges side by side. Leave approximately 3mm between roof sections and apply masking tape or similar from one section to the other. Lift from the working surface and carefully allow the two section to sag. The gap should close considerably and the roof forms a gable. Use roof braces to check fit. Adjustments may be necessary. If so repeat masking tape procedure closing or widening 3mm gap between roof sections. Once satisfied check square and check fit on wall assembly. Repeat until a satisfactory fit is obtained. Once satisfied glue roof sections using superglue gel. Take care where gluing points are positioned. Do not glue where gables will be or where masking tape is. Place roof sections in position on roof gable of wall frame. Leave for at least 4 hours preferably overnight and leave to dry. Remove masking tape. Glue in roof braces. Paint. Also paint adhesive paper, this will be the capping/edging for the roof.


Chose which side you intend to have the chimney.  Glue chimney into position. Care must be taken to cover the side window with the chimney.


Place main roof in position and also place lean-to roof in position. 


Glue gable facia to gable allowing approximately 1 to  1.5 mm overhang or higher than the wall to allow roof to fit. This is to create a flush surface from the roof to the top of the facia. On the chimney side the facia needs to be cut into two pieces  allowing for the chimney. Cut and glue into position. Glue lean-to to facia - again allowing the facia 1 to 1.5 mm higher than the wall to create the flush roof line over the facia. Glue lean-to roof into position and glue main roof into position.


Glue gutter into position. It will be the back wall that requires the gutter, the front verandah has a gutter in the verandah roof support. Gluing points will be under the roof edge and inside the facias.


Windows and door have precut glazing provided and pva glue is required to adhere this glazing. Glue the glazing. Allow to dry. Then glue doors and windows into position.


The two verandah posts are to be glued to the front. Glue just leaving a tiny end part of the wall visible. Repeat at other end. Glue verandah assembly to front wall resting on the verandah posts attached to the front wall. Four turned verandah posts have to be trimmed to length to fit under the verandah roof. Cut to desired length - should be approx 32 mm.


Create the capping/ridging by folding the edge of the adhesive paper to 90 degrees. Place the adhesive strip facing up. Place a steel ruler along where the fold is intended. There should be 3mm or so of the adhesive paper exposed. I use a stanley blade to fold up the exposed edge 90 degrees. Then with the ruler from a line where the cut is required to create the capping/ridging and cut with a hoby knife. Cut the capping/ridging to the required length and peel away the adhesion skin and place into position. Capping/ridging over the facias must be completed before the capping/ridging covers the roof sections.


Now to manufacture the down pipe. There are no rules where the downpipes are to be fitted, you decide where you wish them to be positioned. Take the brass rod and assess if a dog-leg bend in the rod is required  to travel from the gutter to fit flush against the wall. If the bend is required measure the distances and effect bends as required. Paint. Let dry. Cut to correct length and fix to building.


All done