Silo - Geelong Style 2nd page

For gluing the polyurethane parts or anything to the polyurethane superglue is required. In some instances superglue gel is recommended. The plastic in this kit is mostly ABS plastic and requires Tetra or any glue suitable for ABS. Your common MEK type glues are not suitable. Clearing parts of flashing and waste is necessary for all cast and machined plastic pieces.

Start the assembly with the big bins. A flat even surface is a must.

Sanding on the tube ends will be necessary to properly square the bins. I've attached sand paper to my work area using double sided tape then in a sliding motion sand the required area. Harsh sanding techniques such as belt sanders etc should be used with extreme care. A cheating method can be adopted here by standing both big bins side by side keeping one bin still and rotating the other until the walls are parallel. These are the areas where they should be glued.  Place a flat object on the top and check how even the roof line will be. Adjust by sanding the tops of the bins. Carefully mark where the two bins are closest. Checking the floor and the tops. When sanding these bins care must be taken not to jeopardise the height difference between the two bins. Once satisfied prepare for gluing

Identify the jig for holding the bins in position. It is cast polyurethane 10mm thick and has four scalloped sides circumnavigating it. The two shallower scallops cater for the big bins and the most acute scallops are for the smaller bins.  Using the large rubber bands hold the big bins in position with the aid of the pair of jigs. Place the jigs at each end  of the bins. The top jig needs to be 20mm from the top of the bins. The bottom jig needs to be 50mm from the bottom of the bin. This is to allow for the window assembly within the joining walls between all the bins. Check all positions. When satisfied glue.  To glue the big bins to the jig use either superglue gel, liquid nails, or silicone. Standard super glue is not a good idea as some positioning is required. Once the glue is applied re-check all positions, make sure the rubber bands are secure and leave overnight. Do not attach the small bins until the roof assembly is completed.

All kits manufactured after 1.8.2017 will not have the small bins in a cast form. They will be supplied as 50mm pvc tube. The doors will be required to be checked in on both bins and the bevel on the top will need to be created also on both bins. Firstly identify the cap for the bevel. It will need to be honed on the inside of the sleeve as its fit onto the 50 mm tube is tight. Hone out the cap with sanding paper so it slides up and down the 50 mm tube freely but without too much play.  Take a scrap piece of plastic or similar and glue across the top of the cap so it fits on top of the 50 mm tube. Take care not to cover the working are of the bevel. Fit the cap over the top of the tube.  You will now see how much work is required for the bevel to be created. Saw with a razor saw or by and other means at your disposal. Sand to a nice finish. Further adjustment may be required with fitting the roof. With the tube standing in its end and the bevel facing you the door needs to be installed at the 4 o'clock position. Check out the appropriate aperture to cater for the door using the door as a template. When satisfied glue the door into position. Put aside the small bin until later. 

Roof assembly

Start the assembly of the roof. Do not assemble the cupola yet.

Identify the 1mm and the 2mm roof plates. These are glued back to back with the engravings and ruts visible on either sides. Take care making sure the two are perfectly square and flush with one another. The circular engravings will be eventually be positioned on top of the bins. The ruts and associated engravings are  to assist the assembly of the roof. Identify the two spine trusses. These also are glued back to back so the bevels form a peak. Again care with keeping the two square and flush is essential. Identify the rut in the roof plate assembly where the spine truss lives. The remaining 8 ruts are to accommodate the 8 standard trusses into position. Identify the rebated section in the spine truss assembly. This area accommodates the cupola. The standard truss and the rebate of the spine truss must be positioned flush with one another. Keeping both the spine truss assembly and the standard trusses square and flush glue into position. Identify the diagonal engravings on the roof plate assembly. This is where the 4 pairs of roof trusses are positioned.  Some of these trusses have beveling on two sides some have beveling only on one. The trusses with one beveled side sits on the inside of the diagonal line closer to the cupola area of the roof plate assembly. The truss with two beveled sides sit further from the cupola area on the other side of the diagonal line. There are also left and right handed trusses here so take some care and set them all in position prior to gluing. The idea of the bevels is to create a better surface to attach the roof skins. Care must be taken for correct positioning, and all parts here are square. When satisfied glue. Identify the remaining engravings on the roof plate. The engravings that are parallel with the roof plate assembly accommodate the cupola bearers and centre roof bearers. Glue a cupola bearer to a centre roof bearer so the bevel of the centre roof bearer falls away from the assembled pair. Repeat with the other two parts. This assembly is now positioned in between the outer engraved lines. Glue into position. Identify the 4 small trusses with the stepped bottom plate. These are positioned adjacent to the bearers and beside the standard trusses. This forms an area where the overhang roof support is positioned. The area should be 2mm lower than the remainder of the roof frame thus far. The tapered end of this truss must be flush with the end of the 1mm roof plate and the stepped bottom plate enables the truss to sit on both 1mm and 2mm plates.

Identify the overhang roof support parts (2). These are 55 x 50 x 2 mm ABS with one edge beveled. This overhang roof support is positioned on top of the centre roof bearer and the small trusses with the stepped bottom plate. It forms the overhanging part of the roof line. The beveled edge of the overhang roof support becomes where the facias are attached. The beveled edge needs to be furtherest from the cupola area and on the correct angle. Study the positioning of this part considering how the facia must fit. Do not glue yet. Identify the 1mm thick overhang roof support underneath part. These two overhang support parts are glue together to create the part of the roof plate that sits over the small bins. Both have beveled edges. The bevel must continue from one part through the other. With the 2mm part on top and the 1mm part underneath glue together so the bevel is flush and the sides are flush. Repeat for both sets of parts.  This overhang support assembly sits in the position as previously discussed. The 1mm underneath part should sit adjacent to the roof assembly and form the overhanging part of the roof. The 2mm part of the assembly may fall short of the centre roof bearer. It matters not. It may even be too long and require trimming. It should be square and flush within its cavity. When satisfied glue into position. That area should now be flat and flush with the remaining roof assembly to accommodate the corrugated roof skins.

Identify the two roof corrugated panels and the 4 triangle corrugated panels. If the modeller requires some scoring on the corrugated iron now is the time to do this. I use a metal ruler and a scalpel and score across the corrugations. The spine truss and the cavity for the cupola are guides to position the two corrugated panels. Position them into place and when satisfied glue into position. Same with the 4 corner panels. With these 4 corner panel there are left and right hand parts. Some experimenting is required to learn where they fit. Look for an even overhang on the edge of the corrugated panels.When satisfied glue into position. Identify the panel of 1.5mm thick facias. Some scratch building skill is required here. Identify the groove that has been machine into the facias. These cater for the roof corners where the diagonal engravings are. Fold gently at this groove and place into position and cut excess to fit correctly. Glue and repeat until all facias are in position.  Facia is also required on the overhang part of the roof. Same with the guttering. Identify the panel of 2mm thick gutter panel. Using scratch building skills measure and cut to fit and glue into position. On the dispaly model I did this free hand without too much effort. Guttering is also required on the overhang part of the roof. There -That's enough of the roof assembly for the moment.

More of the bin assembly

Identify the two roof cradles. These are cast, 10mm thick with a very shallow v shape to accommodate the roof in an inverted position.  Stand them on their back and position the roof assembly so it sits snug. Once the glue for the large bin assembly has dried position the small bins into position and secure them with the use of the large rubber bands. Make sure the top and bottom are correct. Do not glue yet. Invert the bin assembly and position it onto the roof assembly while it sits on the cradles. The circle engravings on the roof assembly assist with the positioning. The overhang of the roof  and the bevel of the small bins must marry. Take care here to position the small bins correctly. Once satisfied glue the small bins into position and leave over night again. Do not glue the roof assembly to the bin assembly. In fact I would recommend this not be glued at all.

Cupola assembly

All the cupola parts are found in two plastic bags of cast parts. Identify the two side walls, these walls are three mm thick and have one aperture in each to accommodate the vent. Identify the vent.  Position the vent

in the side window and glue. Identify the front and rear corrugated wall and the front and rear wall support. Marry one of each together and position so the window apertures of both are flush and square. The front and rear window support has a rebated section for window assembly. This rebated area must be visible after gluing with the front and rear walls. There are a pair of cast blocks that fit snug into these window apertures to help positioning. These cast blocks must not be glued and once used for their purpose can be disposed of. The bottom of both parts must be flush and the sides should reveal a rebate of 3mm to cater where the side walls fit. When satisfied glue. Identify the two window fittings. These are what fit behind the front and rear walls into the rebated area of the front and rear wall support. The idea of these is to provide a surface to paint  instead of having clear windows. I personally like the dark effect beyond the window. Some people like it a light pale ghost white colour. Some don't like either. They can be disposed of if the modeller wishes. They do provide a stopper when inserting the windows later. If the modeller is utilising these parts now is the time to assemble them. Firstly they should be painted in the colour the modeller desires. Once the paint is dry positioned in the rebated area and glued. There are also some thin cast blocks that can act as a mask to protect the paint. These cast blocks should sit snug in the window aperture and remain there without the use of any adhesive. This process with protect the paint on the window fitting when painting the cupola. Glue the side walls into position keeping everything square and flush. Identify the cupola roof. Carefully fold the roof to create the required gable. Position the roof on the cupola assembly and glue into position. Then identify the cupola roof vent and glue into its aperture in the roof.

Once the glue on the bin assembly is dry and it can be removed from its position on the roof assembly do so. Glue the cupola into its position on the roof assembly. Cut the ridging strips free from the panel. A groove is along the centre line of the ridging strips. That is to enable an easy fold. Scratch building skill is required here. Basically cut the strips where required and glue into position. Do not forget the small ridging required on the cupola. Now the cupola can to glued into its position. If the cupola is not quite square there are a pair of internal braces to help solve this. Set the cupola into it position and when satisfied glue. If there are gaps, mask either side and fill with putty and clean up. The roof assembly can now be painted.

More of the bin assembly

Identify the four wall joining strips. These are long thin cast strips that fit in between the bins. They have different window apertures, the sides are beveled and should be positioned as directed. Three of these strips have widow apertures 20mm from an end. This end is the ground end. The fourth strip has its first window approximately 180mm from the end. This is also the ground end. Carefully look at the but ground end of the strips and you can see them marked l, ll, and lll. The fourth is not visible although the fourth strip is easily identified by it having only two window apertures as opposed to three window apertures in all the others.  Stand the bin assembly facing you. You now need to decide which will be the rail side and which will be the road side of the bin assembly. Face the rail side of bin assembly to you. Strip No. l is on the left hand side and strip No. ll is on the right. Do not glue into position yet. Rotate the bin assembly so the road side faces you. Strip No. lll is on the left and the remaining strip - the one with two window apertures is on the right. The vital importance relates to the rail side. No.l must be to the left as No.ll therefore must be on the right. It's the right side where the water tanks are located and the windows in that strip accommodate an accurate positioning of those tanks without interfering with the window positions. Check the height of the strips against the bins. Some trimming of the strips might be necessary. Identify the plastic bag of three pane windows and rear of window fittings. As described for the cupola these are for painting to provide colour behind the window as opposed to a clear window. Use if you desire. If being used they should be painted now and when dry glue on the strip from behind . Again there are some small  cast blocks that can be used as masking over the painted rear of window fittings. Do not glue these. They should fit snug into position without any adhesive.

Position the strips  ready to glue. Again check they are correct as previously described. The strips should rest against the bin jigs and adjacent to the bins. Take care to keep the strips straight. It is easy to create a concave effect with these strips if pushed too hard in the centre area of the strip. When satisfied glue. Once the glue has dried any gaps between the bins and strips can by puttied. Mask each side of the gap, putty clean up and sand when dry. The bin assembly can now be painted. Once dry apply the decals where appropriate. There is no rule where the decals are positioned. They all vary from silo to silo. However the bin numbers obviously go on the bins. The warning signs can go anywhere. Paint the window frames. Paint both the cupola and bin window frames. Once dry if the modeller has used the masking blocks, remove and set the windows  into position. I have not glued my windows in the display model and with all the traveling to exhibitions etc., none have fallen out. Decide if you wish to glue them.

Water tank assembly

Identify the water tanks and associated parts. The water tank sits onto a platform and there are two beams that support the platform. I paint each before assembling. Once dry assemble. The beams are cut to fit. First cut the beam closest to the strip joing wall. I cut this one flush with the platform. Check the fit and then cut the second furtherest from the strip. Cut to fit. Cut on an angle to accommodate the curve of the bin. I usually have a couple of attempts starting at the first cut being too wide to fit properly and then making the appropriate adjustments. Once satisfied glue. The lowest tank is 40mm from the ground to the bottom of the tank assembly, the highest is 120mm from the ground and again to the bottom of the tank assembly.

Weigh-bridge assembly

Identify the weigh-bridge and associated parts. The shed/office has 1mm brass rod for elevation. Cut 4 x 20mm section of rod and drill 2mm into the base of the shed at each corner. Glue into position. Glue into position the brass ladder. Paint the shed assembly, paint the weigh-bridge platform and its surround. When dry glue into position.

Recieving hopper and loading platform assembly

Identify the loading platform. It is a small platform with a curved side to sit adjacent to the small bin. It has four steps at either end and is positioned on the rail side of the bin assembly. The straight front of the platform must be parallel to the train tracks. Paint and glue into position.

The receiving hopper floor also has a curved side to sit adjacent to the small bin. The floor part has a rebated area to accommodate the receiving bin and on the other side of the aperture is a small rebated strip to accommodate the fence. Identify and glue the fence and bin into position. Identify and place into position the receiving bin lid. This lid can be glued if you wish. I prefer not to. The aperture accommodates the hopper doors. Again there is no need to glue the hopper doors into place. Paint and glue


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