Silo - Geelong Style 3rd page

Spout and spout support assembly.
Firstly the modeller should check out the section 8 model railway facebook page. It will include some photographs of the spouts on the display model of this silo. It will give an idea of what needs doing and the instructions here can corroborate one another.  
In this kit there are three different spouts provided. Firstly the 3mm spout which emerges from the joining wall strip, the second, a 5mm stumpy spout which emerges from the small bin and the third and last a long 5mm spout that emerges from the big bin. The modeller can use one, two or all three of the spouts and more if he is prepared to buy them from Section 8. A minimum of the first listed spout is recommended. That is the 3mm spout that emerges from the wall strip. Some scratch building skill is required for these spouts and their supports.

3mm Spout

Identify the two odd shaped spout assembly jigs. The first is 10 mm thick has some ruts and engravings. it also has a 50 mm measurement engraved. This is the height the spout opening is from the ground. The other spout jig is for assembly of the 1st spout, the 3mm spout.
Identify the 3mm spout tube and associated parts. They are all in the same bag. 100 mm of 3mm styrene tube, 2 elbow styrene joiners and 1 right angle styrene joiner. A length of small C channel and some small lengths of thin styrene. A brass brake lever ratchet bar. Cut two 20mm lengths of 3mm styrene. With one of the 20mm lengths cut a 45 degree angle at the end being careful not to jeopardise the 20mm length. Identify the 2nd jig. The one for assembly of the spout. There are two blocks on the jig. One is angled like a slide and the other just a square block with a rut in the middle and a triangle shape on an end. Take the 20mm length of 3mm styrene that has the 45 degree angled cut and position it on this part of the jig. The 45 degree cut should fit flush against the triangle shape on the jig. The other 20mm length of 3mm tube sits of the slide part of the jig. Both lengths should be positioned in between the ruts of this jig. Where the two lengths meet position a 3mm elbow joiner in between and join the three pieces together. Sit the assembled bit in the jig and position them so they fit snug and flush. When satisfied glue. The end where the 45 cut has been made is where the spout will eventually be positioned against the wall joining strip. At the other end of the spout assembly insert a 3mm right angle joiner.  Cut a 40mm length of 3mm styrene tube and insert into the exposed opening of the 3mm right angle joiner. Experiment  positions with the spout assembly Hold it where it should finally sit and establish the correct angle. The 40mm length of 3mm tube should be retracted. At the open end of the 40mm tube another 3mm styrene elbow is placed. This is the pouring end of the spout assembly and should face the ground in its final position. On this elbow the exposed joining lug needs to be removed. Glue when satisfied. Consult photographs in the previously mentioned facebook page.

Assembling the spout support

The modeller with need some 1mm and .8mm  brass rod. Cut a 40mm length and a 30mm of 1mm brass rod. To prepare the spout support three holes need to be drilled in the spout tube assembly. The 40mm length of the 3mm tube is where all the holes are drilled. First hole is drilled where this 40mm tube joins with the right angle joiner. Drill on the join about half way into the tube. The second is 10mm from the 1st hole along the 40mm tube and the last is 25mm from the first hole. Drill these two into the centre of the tube. The holes all should be drilled using a 1mm bit. The hole at the join and the next at 10mm mark should drilled in such a fashion the rods when inserted will be parallel with the bins and head towards the ground. The third drilled hole should be square with the tube but also head groundwards although head toward the end of the 40mm brass rod. Effectively forming a triangle. Drill the holes. Have the 30mm rod intersect with the 40mm rod. Have about a 5mm stump on the 40mm rod after where the two intersect. Glue or solder this junction of the two rods. Position the other ends into the 3mm styrene tube and glue. Cut a 40mm length of .8m brass rod. Glue an end into the hole at the 10mm mark on the styrene tube. Identify the brass ratchet bar. Some modellers will recognise this part from steam era kits. It is a thin brass strip type with lugs at either end and a ratchet along almost half the length. Cut of the lugs at each end. Where the ratchet finishes and becomes a plain brass strip form a right angle by folding. The ratchet is position so the .8mm brass rod slides through the ratchet. The ratchet part is parallel to the ground and the arm should be parallel to the bin facing toward the ground. Anchor each end of the ratchet to the 30mm brass rod by either solder or glue. Solder or glue the .8mm brass rod onto the 30mm brass rod keeping the parts symmetrical as best you can. Cut a 28mm length of .8mm brass rod. Anchor either by glue or solder one end of this rod onto the other .8mm brass rod approximately  8mm above the ratchet. The other end is glued against the spout pouring end onto the elbow. The modeller can then manufacture a loop of the thin styrene. About 7 or 8 mm in diameter.  This will form a handle at the pouring end of the spout. Position the loop over the elbow  and glue. The support assembly may need some adjustment to achieve its correct position. Experiment with the spout held into position and adjust by bending the support. Paint

When satisfied prepare to glue. The 45 degree cut is on the end and against the wall. The jig with the rut and engraving has a side that measures 50mm. If that jig is stood on its end and the pouring end of the spout sits on top of that jig that will provide the correct height to glue the spout to the wall. Experiment and when satisfied glue into position.  The 40mm brass rod will need a bracket at the bottom to anchor it to the bin. After the bracket is manufactured the brass rod will sit in the channel part of the bracket.

Assembling the support bracket.

These brackets are used in all of the spouts and are two sizes, either 10mm or 15mm. Identify the plastic bag containing the spout hoods, spout tube receivers and a jig for constructing spout support. This jig is a small cast 3mm thick bit with ruts. Two ruts run lengths ways and two cross the jig. The two length ways ruts differ from one another. One is square and the other is grooved. The cross ruts are the same, one is square and one is grooved. The length ways ruts are 15mm in length and the cross ruts are 10mm. Identify the small C channel and the thin styrene strips. These can be found in the plastic bag with the 3mm styrene tube. Take the C channel  and place into the 10mm square rut. C channel must be exposed. Position it against  the stopper at the end. Cut at the other end of the jig.This will give a length of 10mm. The C channel must be exposed. Position the 10mm C channel against the stopper and the end of the jig.  Where the grooved rut crosses the C channel a small grooved incision is made into the C channel. This is to create a right angle in the bracket. Do not cut too deep into the C channel. Make the incision and fold the channel into a right angle and glue. Use the thin styrene strips for support on the bracket using the thin strips to form a triangle shape from one arm of the bracket to the other arm. Repeat on the other side of the bracket. Glue into position. Creating the 15mm bracket is the same process except it is all done in the15mm part of the jig. Paint the bracket. The assembled 10mm bracket is then glue and the base of the 40mm brass rod and anchored onto the small bin. Experiement and achieve a symmetrical position. When satisfied glue.

5mm stumpy spout

This spout is the spout that emerges from the small bin. Position the bin assembly so the rail side faces you. Imagine a centre line up and down the small bin. This spout will be positioned along that centre line.

Identify the large spout hood. There is only one of these parts and is approximately 10 x 7mm with a slope on the top and concave side. The concave is to accommodate the small bin so the hood sits flush against the small bin. Identify the four spout tube receivers. These are block like cast parts with holes on the underside and concave side to accommodate the bins. Two have shallow concaves and the other two more acute. The shallower concaved part are for the big bins and the others are for the small bins. Holes in these parts are to accomodate the lugs on the styrene elbows. Glue the hood on top of the spout receiver. Make sure the concave of both are flush. Put aside. Cut a 35mm length of the 5mm styrene tube. At each end glue a 5mm elbow. Glue to create an S type shape keeping square. Create a 10mm spout support bracket as previously described. Cut a 10mm length of 1mm brass rod. Decide what end will be adjacent to the spout hood. Glue the tube assembly into the hole of the spout hood assembly. Keep in mind the spout must be in a retracted position. At the pouring end of the spout cut off the joining lug on the elbow. At the spout hood end and where the 35 mm tube meets the elbow drill a 1mm hole on the join at an angle. This hole is to accommodate the 10mm brass rod. Design it so the 10mm brass rod will sit parallel to the bin and head ground wards. Experiment with positioning. hold the assembled spout into its final position and determine how and where to drill.  Drill the hole and insert the rod and glue. Paint. Using the jig to achieve the 50mm height from the ground (as previously discussed). When satisfied glue into position. Manufacture a 10mm bracket as previously discussed and position the same as the 3mm spout.  Paint and glue when satisfied.

Long 5mm spout

This spout is the spout that emerges from the large bin. Position the bin assembly so the rail side faces you. Imagine a centre line up and down the large bin. This spout will be positioned along that centre line.  Identify the cast jig with a rut and engravings. Identify the deepest grooved rut on the jig. Place a length of 1mm brass rod onto this rut. Cut so the rod is the same length as the jig. It should be about 63mm. Leave this rod on the jig flush with the ends. Cut a 25 length of .8mm brass rod. Position the .5mm rod on the angled engraving so one end of the rod just sits on top of the 1mm rod. The cut away section of the jig is the help the gluing or soldering. When satisfied solder or glue.

Cut a 50mm length of the 5mm styrene tube. In the same process as the 5mm stumpy spout attach a 5mm elbow at each end of the tube. This forms an S type shape as previously discussed. The spout hood assembly is also the same as described in the stumpy spout instructions. The only difference is the spout hood is smaller and the spout tube receiving part has a shallower concave.  Do not glue the spout hood assembly yet. Drill a 1mm hole into the spout assembly as previously described in the stumpy spout instructions. Also drill another 1mm hole 25mm further down along the 50mm tube. These holes will accommodate the support frame. Create a pair of support brackets. One 10mm type and one 15mm type. 1mm hole needs to be drilled into an arm of the these two brackets. This is so the 63mm rod slides through. The 15mm bracket will be the mounted lower on the bin and the 10mm will be higher. Drill a 1mm hole on the 5mm arm of the 15mm bracket. It should be about 2mm from the end. Drill a 1mm hole on either arm of the 10mm bracket about 2mm from the end. These two brackets will be positioned inverted as compared to the previous 3mm and 5mm stumpy spouts. Consult photographs on the facebook page. The 10mm bracket is threaded onto the support frame from the top. leave loose for the time being. Glue the Hood assembly to the support frame. Thread on the 15mm bracket onto the lower part of the 65mm rod. Paint. Using the jig to establish the height of glue the spout assembly and support into position. Manipulate the brackets so the top one is about 20mm higher than the join of the two brass rods.  The lower 15mm bracket is positioned so the bottom of the rod penetrates about 2mm lower than the bracket. When satisfied glue.

Hopefully this is the end.